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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect well-known award-winning establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The honour has left the family utterly astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” states the proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble shop securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.